Food

These richly flavored tacos balance the earthiness of shiitake mushrooms and green lentils with the sweetness of cabbage, the sourness of green tomatoes, and the distinctive flavor of an aromatic treat from our herb garden. Green coriander seeds are the tender immature seeds of the cilantro plant. Before they dry, their flavors are intensely sweet and fresh. Their brief season is preserved in this distinctive jam. Green tomatoes are a regular part of our farm too—not every tomato ripens in our Canadian climate!

We grow many things well on our farm, but sweet potatoes are not one of them—our growing season is too short. So instead, we rely on farmers in much warmer climates to do it for us. Nonetheless they are a nutritional powerhouse, and one of my favorite vegetables. Baking is my preferred way to cook them. We do grow lots of fragrant cilantro, and through life-cycle harvesting we enjoy its aromatic leaves, green coriander seeds, and lacy white flowers. The pesto brings together lots of citrusy cilantro leaves and bright balancing flavors in a tasty condiment ready to complete a deliciously baked sweet potato.

Gnocchi are easily made deliciously chewy dumplings that are part mashed potato, part pasta.  They’re particularly tasty simply browned and crisped in butter. Tender spinach is puréed into a bright green sauce scented with fragrant nutmeg. Orach is an ancient vegetable with a savory mineral flavor like spinach and chard. Its microgreens and tender leaves pair beautifully with earthy potatoes.

Simple techniques elevate broccoli and cauliflower in this delicious side dish. Smooth white cauliflower purée and chickpea flour make gluten-and dairy-free yet memorably crisp fritters. Briefly cooked broccoli is smoothly puréed into a bright green sauce with lots of mellowed garlic.

Spring dawns and with it an awakening of our mood and senses. Shoots and leaves are emerging, and we’re greeted by a host of fresh vegetables rearing their heads after a long winter. It’s always a joy to see the first rhubarb, delicate peas, spring leeks, and asparagus.

In spring, a different kind of turnip is available: a small, round, golf ball-shaped Hakurei turnip, often referred to as a salad turnip. These are lovely and crisp when eaten raw but can also be lightly sautéed and infused with flavour. In this dish, the turnips are first stir-fried and then coated in a dressing of miso, ginger, garlic, and honey before tossing with some spring salad leaves. Choose leaves that will stand up to the warmth of the salad, like a young mustard green mix including leaves such as tatsoi and mizuna.

A simple stir-fry is a quick and easy meal that makes the most of fresh vegetables. This spring-inspired stir-fry leans on spring onions, the first fresh snow peas, baby spinach, and fiddleheads. Szechuan (a.k.a. Sichuan) peppercorns add a layer of complexity to this dish with a pleasing citrus flavour and a slight numbing heat. They can be found in specialty spice stores, but if you can’t find them you can still enjoy the gingery-garlicky, spicy heat of the other ingredients.

Leek and potato soup is a spring classic and really shines with new-season leeks. This soup takes the classic recipe a step further in a celebration of spring alliums by adding charred spring onions and garlic scapes, the immature flowering part of the garlic plant. Unlike the garlic bulb, scapes impart a gentler, fresher garlic flavour.

In April, we’re coming to the end of the season for Belgian endives, but if you haven’t already indulged, it’s a great time to take advantage of this bounty. Braising is a delicious way to cook this slightly bitter leaf, also called witloof or chicory. In this dish, its slight bitterness is perfectly complemented by the sweet braising liquid of orange, honey, and mustard before being given a dash of licorice flavour with a sprinkling of tarragon.  

Artichokes can be somewhat intimidating. But once you’ve made your way past its spiky exterior and removed the thistlelike choke, there lies a tender heart with a sweet flavour. The meaty bases of artichoke leaves are also edible and make perfect dipping vehicles to scoop up sauce or, in this case, a stuffing with just a touch of Spanish serrano ham and Marcona almonds. Artichokes take a bit of care to prepare—and to eat—but they present a wonderful opportunity to slow down and savour flavourful ingredients. Don’t be afraid to use your hands!

Eggs and asparagus are so quintessentially spring and nothing could be easier to prepare than this simple yet elegant dish that works as well for breakfast as for a light lunch. The earthy flavours of asparagus are complemented by a light dressing of licorice-scented tarragon and a little dash of heat. To make this dish more filling, choose a hearty whole grain bread as the base of your sandwich. One with a blend of ancient grains including spelt or khorasan wheat (Kamut) is particularly nice. Springtime presents a wonderful opportunity to experiment with a host of different microgreens. Spicy radish microgreens or bright, young pea shoots work equally well in this dish.

Wild salmon is by far the best salmon you can get — it is sustainable and is more healthful than farm raised. Over-fishing, pollution, and the damming of rivers have depleted populations of wild salmon around the world, but in the Pacific Northwest locals are fiercely active in their efforts to protect the wild salmon population. A few years ago my sister surprised me with a chartered fishing trip out of Salt Spring Island, British Columbia, which was a great opportunity to learn about the native species of fish in the area, including salmon. Sadly, the salmon evaded us that day, but we did accidentally catch a bald eagle that snatched a cod we were reeling in. The bird got tangled in the line and for a minute we were really concerned we would have to remove the line from an angry bald eagle. Lucky for everyone it managed to free itself and we were all spared.

Many of us have heard stories of bygone days when lobster was considered poor man’s food. Now the price of lobster makes it a special occasion treat, no longer something fishermen use as bait or garden fertilizer, which is all the more reason to avoid waste and use it entirely — antenna to tail. Ask your fishmonger to choose females for this recipe, only the female lobsters will have the roe (eggs) needed to flavor the butter for the sauce. (Raw lobster eggs are dark green and called roe, when the eggs are cooked they turn red and are called coral.) Making fresh pasta is easier than you think. If you’re not ready to take the leap, substituting your favorite dried pasta will still yield delicious results.

Many factors influence the taste and texture of oysters; from the farming methods and geography of where they’re raised, to water salinity, temperature, diet, and of course the length of time they’ve been out of the ocean before they’re on your plate. It’s not surprising that my favorite oyster farm happens to be where I’m from, D’Eon Oyster Company in Nova Scotia. There are hundreds of oyster varieties in the United States alone and I recommend visiting an oyster farm if you have an opportunity. Many farms host summer events and there’s nothing like a freshly shucked oyster with a glass of bubbly on a hot day. Oysters are versatile and can be eaten raw, pickled, fried, grilled, or even poached. Eating them raw with just a little bit of mignonette on top is classic. The vinegar mixes with the oyster’s brine and together it’s a perfect combination.

Hodge Podge is a traditional Nova Scotian soup and a staple at summer potlucks. It’s made with seasonal whole baby vegetables from the garden so feel free to change things up to make your own variation depending on what is in season. Adding smoked trout gives it hardiness and complexity. Sometimes I include a version of this on the menu at Halifax or Coast Kitchen using smaller vegetables and finishing the soup with a creamier broth. To avoid disappointing guests at the restaurant who are looking for the traditional Nova Scotian dish, the name is changed to Smoked Trout Chowder.

Broccoli stems have a great crunchy texture and high nutritional value. It’s a shame they’re often wasted more than they’re used. This recipe uses primarily stems, but you can always add more florets. The vinaigrette is my go-to dressing at home and in the restaurants. It tastes great with almost anything. You’ll have extra dressing and it keeps in the fridge for a couple of weeks. The secret ingredient is nutritional yeast, which my mom introduced me to as a popcorn topping when I was little. It works well as a substitute for grated parmesan in dressings and pesto. Important note: do not confuse nutritional yeast with baking yeast. They are quite different and cannot be interchanged.

This not-too-sweet chocolate dessert has a boost of fibre from chia and is topped with luscious raspberries for a classic combination. Cinnamon and chocolate are natural friends that will get along famously with a hint of tahini as well. Mix and chill this dessert in the jar or ramekin you’ll serve it in.

This chicken dinner comes together in a snap and is filled with iron-rich spinach and an extra hit of fibre from antioxidant-rich artichokes. The addition of lemon, thyme, and broth make for a brightly flavoured sauce that is tempered with a creamy spoonful of yogurt.

This version of turmeric tea leans heavily on the ginger, and its flavour is strong, spicy, and soothing. Using whole turmeric versus powder will give you more curcumin, the active component of turmeric with healthy anti-inflammatory properties. Curcumin is not easily absorbed by the body, but adding pepper and fats such as olive and coconut oil increases the body’s ability to absorb it.

If you enjoy a savoury snack, look no further than this yogurt bowl. Protein- and probiotic-rich yogurt is topped with spiced sweet potatoes, pumpkin seeds, and a drizzle of olive oil and cilantro. A little prep goes a long way toward making this a convenient and satisfying snack. Cook the potatoes in advance so the bowl can be quickly assembled at snack time.

Whole grains such as spelt and other high-fibre foods such as kale, beets, and apples help promote a healthy gut and ease digestion. This fibre-packed salad has a bright, slightly sweet flavour with a hint of apple and a tangy lemon juice dressing. Choose a crisp, sweet-tart apple such as Pink Lady for best results, and don’t skip massaging the kale, which helps it to soften up. Kale holds up well, even once dressed, so any leftovers (assuming there are any) will last until the next day in the refrigerator.

Egg bites are a delicious and convenient way to get some protein in the mornings. These ones get an extra nutrition boost with antioxidant-rich sweet potato and spinach. Using grated sweet potato ensures all of the ingredients cook evenly during the baking time. Once you’ve made these—and tasted their goodness—they’ll become an easy addition to your breakfast repertoire.

This recipe leaves out the crusty bread that a traditional banh mi sandwich includes, but we promise you the flavour is not lacking. It hits all the Vietnamese flavour profiles you’re expecting in this classic dish, including sweet, spicy, and sour with a punch of umami.

These finger-licking tacos are sure to be a Friday-night favourite or staple on taco Tuesdays. Butter beans are loaded with protein and lend a perfect creamy texture to these tacos. Baking the coleslaw adds a fun twist to this classic staple accompaniment. Serving the coleslaw right from the oven will be just the crunch these tacos need.